Published: June 29, 2009 01:21 am      

Eat at Ricks

Making a name in Ironton one home-cooked meal at a time

IRONTON — If you try his food once, Rick Miller is confident you’ll come back and bring a friend.

The sweet smell of slow-roasted pork and the aroma of hickory-wood smoke introduce themselves as you enter Rick’s Barbecue and More at 1619 S. Third St. in Ironton. The front of the building is dedicated to a variety of gifts and home decor items, while the rest of the place is decorated with an “eclectic” style reflecting the owners’ Christian values and beliefs.

“Eclectic — that means nothing matches,” Miller said with a chuckle, explaining he and his wife, Ava, wanted a place that would remind people of home.

The Millers started their business in the Westwood section of Ashland with a four-table restaurant. Officials in Ironton approached them while they were considering ways to relocate as part of Ashland’s ongoing riverfront renovation, and they found their new home in a space that can comfortably seat 56 people without crowding.

Their challenge now, he says, is letting people know where they are and what they have to offer.

“We don’t have an identity in Ironton, and the city is working with us to give us an identity,” he said, adding “Our restaurant front doesn’t look like a restaurant. There’s people we run into everyday that don’t know we exist.”

The Millers insisted their business remain alcohol free, even though that option could bring additional customers and revenue.

“That’s something we just won’t do,” he said, noting they have had a few customers who left the restaurant after learning they couldn’t order a beer with their barbecue.

While Rick tends to the slow-smoking of meats at all hours of day and night, he is quick to say it is his wife who keeps the business in operation.

“Ava is the backbone. Without her I would shut it down and go home,” he said as a cloud of savory hickory smoke swirled around him. He said he always tells people he is wearing “Old Hickory Cologne,” when they comment on the distinctive scent of his clothes.

“I create things,” Miller said with a grin, explaining he enjoys experimenting with different tastes and tends to add his best creations to their menu. Among his latest creations is a pulled pork taco, which he describes as “out of this world.” An accidental combination of pie recipes recently resulted in the creation of the restaurant’s Tropical Cream Pie. He also invented the Rick’s Barbecue Beenie-Weenie Dog with smoked beans and cheese and recently added a smoked sirloin tip sandwich to the list of entrees.

Classic choices, such as chicken and dumplings, also tend to be a customer favorite. Miller said they serve their chicken and dumplings only on Thursdays and Fridays.

“A lot of people come on just those two days. We sell a lot of chicken and dumplings,” he said, adding he hopes to add a catfish dinner with his own brand of southern-style hush puppies to the menu.

Cleanliness is a top priority at Rick’s Barbecue and More, as is the practice of making practically everything from scratch. Miller said they have adjusted their menu for the change in tastes between the two sides of the Ohio River.

“We sell 50 percent more beef brisket here than we did in Westwood. We sold more fried potatoes and brown beans in Westwood than we do here. We used to sell fried baloney over there, we don’t even sell it over here because nobody asks for it,” he said.

He added they provide a rare option for anyone who is unfamiliar with their menu.

“You can always get a sample of our food when you come in our door,” he said. “If food is good it will sell itself.”

Miller said they have enjoyed cooking for many small groups as well as larger gatherings including weddings, reunions and events sponsored by local hospitals. Their traveling customers compare their food to favorite barbecue places throughout the south, Miller said, although the business is feeling the impact of the recent economic downturn.

“We’re just floating right now. The Lord is getting us by. I rely on Him a lot,” Miller said.

Rick’s Barbecue and More is open from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday (closed Sunday and Monday). For more information call (740) 532-1300.

TIM PRESTON can be reached at tpreston@dailyindependent.com or at (606) 326-2651.